Golden Riviera

The unsuspected side of Beira

Yeah, I have to admit. I’ve seen better places.

Beira is definitely not what you would call a “touristic” attraction. The old, rusty buildings, are the only reminiscence of an ancient splendour that is nowhere to be seen today.

Once upon a time, Beira was one of the finest cities of the east coast of Africa. It was the pride of the Portuguese administration, and the favorite holiday destination of the people of nearby old Rhodesia. But today, after years of negligence and abandonment, is a lot less charming.

Okay, Beira, I admit.

Our first meeting didn’t end up very well. I don’t know.. maybe I had too many expectations, maybe you weren’t the city I was looking for. But the first time we didn’t click at all.

We met a rainy day of December. I was landing from an international flight, eager to meet you, discover you, explore you. Curiosity was burning inside me, like a child unwrapping a bar of chocolate. I was going to taste Mozambique, and you were my first bite.

It hasn’t been love at first sight, and I knew we needed some more time to understand each others.

I needed time to appreciate your hidden beauty, the subtle charm of your decadent façade, the weird aesthetic of a city where ancient colonial maisons seem to live together with big, industrial condos in decay, I needed time to contemplate the grim side of your slums and the elegance of your residential bairros.

I spent my last week in Beira.

It has been quite a busy week, but I also had the intention to explore and enjoy the city a little bit more than my first time.

One thing is sure, I discovered that you have much more surprises than I could expect. Like the little exhibition of Português artist Andre Letria, the musical nights at Casa de Cultura, the artisanal market of the Feira Verde, the delicacy of camarãos and lulas that you can get on the restaurants along the seashore, and the sophisticated pleasure of a good cup of coffee that is nowhere to be found in the rest of the whole Province.

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